Table of contents

1. Introduction 2. Sampling Process
2.1. Arrival and delivery 2.2. Sampling Tags
3. How To Measure Instructions 4. Testing
4.1. Jersey & Knits 4.2. Woven 4.3. Denim 4.4. Leather, suede and imitation leather 4.5. Outerwear 4.6. Sportswear 4.7. Swimwear 4.8. Underwear & Foundations 4.9. Trims 4.9.1. Lining 4.9.2. Zip-Fasteners 4.9.3. Cords And Drawstrings 4.9.4. Yarn 4.9.5. Buttons 4.10. REACH
5. Manufactured Clothing Specifications
5.1. Fabric 5.2. Seam Construction & Finishing 5.3. Hems & Cuffs 5.4. Sleeves 5.5. Pleats/Folds/Slits 5.6. Fastening 5.7. Buttons & Accessories 5.8. Pockets 5.9. Collars 5.10. Interlining 5.11. Lining 5.12. Belts & Waistbands 5.13. Stitching Yarn 5.14. Elastic Cords 5.15. Labels 5.16. Ironing & Finishing 5.17. Special Details 5.18. Swimwear
6. Labeling Information
6.1. Additional Care Label Information 6.1.1. Material Translation 6.1.2. Care Instruction Translation 6.2. Labeling Position 6.2.1. Tops 6.2.2. Dress 6.2.3. Coat/Jacket 6.2.4. Pullover 6.3. Bottoms 6.3.1. Skirt 6.3.2. Trouser/Short 6.3.3. Jeans 6.4. Body Fashion 6.4.1. Foundations 6.4.2. Swimwear

1. Introduction

Welcome to the Wehkamp Quality Manual Fashion (WQM Fashion).

Wehkamp B.V. is established in 1952 and from 1995 onwards we took the first steps to the online world. As of 2010 Wehkamp B.V. is one of the biggest online retail companies in the Netherlands. At Wehkamp.nl you can choose from wonderful collections of seasonal items and an extensive basic assortment.

Within Wehkamp B.V. we create and distribute several private labels fashion for women and children.” From apparel to swimwear.

We have a passion to serve our customers with goods they would also recommend to others. We therefore search for suppliers that share the same passion for quality and excellent workmanship.

Together we can let both businesses grow, your support in this is crucial.

Our customers expect a high quality standard. Comfort within fashionable styles is essential for our customer. Same as for (small) children it is crucial the garment they are wearing is comfortable and safe.

In order to achieve a high quality level, it requires cooperation across the entire supply chain. Our suppliers are playing a vital role in ensuring top quality of our products. You as a supplier have the responsibility to monitor our product from beginning till end making sure all Wehkamp and customers expectations are met.

WQM Fashion provides you, our supplier expectations and requirements regarding the production quality outcome for our private label items. WQM Fashion has been composed based on European regulations and standards and applies to all garments (also sampling) and accessories. This includes raw materials, fabrics and every type of supplement, also from external sources. We expect all of our suppliers to be familiar with international legislation and follow the WQM Fashion requirements to ensure that our customers receive their goods in a safe condition and good appearance.

In case any issue occurs during development or production that might withhold the supplier from complying with the WQM, the responsible buyer and QA employee must be informed. Production may only start when solution is found.

WQM Fashion might receive updates when needed. All updates will be visible on the Supplier Portal (www.wehkamplogistiek.nl). In case of any updates you will received an email notification.

2. Sampling Process

For checking the quality of the ordered products we need:

  • Proto fitting samples
  • Pre-Production or photo samples
  • Final inspection reports (if agreed with QA)
  • Shipment samples

All proto samples requested by Wehkamp need to be delivered:

  • In packaging that is appropriate for mail-order dispatch.
  • With sample card including Wehkamp style name or number, composition and weight of fabric, maker name and date.
  • In the correct fabric as the order and size specification have indicated.

Samples will be judged for:

  • The construction.
  • The fitting.
  • The workmanship.
  • The composition of the material.
  • The full presence of all parts/accessories (if applicable).

Wehkamp QA will:

  • Draw up a report with his/her findings.
  • And directly sends this to the supplier or the agent with a copy to the buyer/buying assistant.
  • Only after the supplier has confirmed that all necessary changes will be carried out an article will be approved for production.

If necessary:

  • Wehkamp will have to ask for a revised sample.
  • QA will ask to check a photo sample before they approve fit of product for production. Buying always needs to see a photo sample for final approval.
  • If final inspection report doesn’t add up to our quality standards, QA will request improvements.

All bulk items must be approved by Wehkamp before starting production:

  • Bulk fabrics and test reports
  • Trims and artworks
  • Care labels and hangtags

2.1. Arrival and delivery

Wehkamp needs well in advance written information from all articles concerning:

  • The composition of each package
  • The number identification per pack (in case an article consists of more than one package)
  • The composition and the identification of any product or packages must not be changed if at all possible, this also applies for repeat orders.
  • Whenever, compared to prior deliveries, the composition or the identification of the packs need to be changed this must be passed on to the buying department at an early date.

2.2. Sampling Tags

 

         

Please note:

  • Make sure to send the tracking number when a parcel has been sent out.
  • Samples must have a sampling tag as mentioned above with complete and correct information on sample.
  • Fitting samples must be sent in the correct quality and weight.
  • To avoid delay on fitting comments, make sure to send the samples on time for fitting as mentioned above.
  • Samples must be measured by supplier using either wehkamp or factory size specifications.
  • Please send size specification + sample measurements by email together with parcel notification.

3. How To Measure Instructions

In General:

  • All measurements should be taken on a smooth and hard surface. Measuring tape should be in a good condition and digits are clearly readable.
  • All measurements in size specifications are in cm’s, measured on a finished garment, flat on table.
  • All measurements are taken on the front side of the garment, unless specified otherwise.
  • Drawing is not to scale and only for measurements, not for style details.

The Garment Should:

  • Lay flat, free of wrinkles or creases, bunches and folds.
  • Be closed at measuring position/area, i.e. buttons, zippers, plackets and slits to be closed.
  • Not to be stretched, unless mentioned otherwise.
  • Be flattened with your hand in case of bulky items as padded or down jackets.

Different Ways of Measuring Have To Be Clearly Mentioned:

  • Straight/Horizontal = to be measured right angled to grain line.
  • Straight/Vertical = to be measured parallel to grain line.
  • Curved = measurement tape along garment edge, hem of seam.
  • Relaxed = for garments with elastic; to be measured from side edge to side edge while garment is relaxed.
  • Stretched = for garments which elastic’ are has to be stretched to achieve that fabric is relaxed and flat.
  • Edge to Edge = total width independently of where the seams are positioned.

You’ll find all measurements of styling details such as artwork and print position, seams and hem height, tab and loops, tunnels, zipper and button etc. on the detail sheet on style level.

  • Neck stretch: minimum
    Not shown in drawing. Measured while stretching neck rib. This is to assure the garment can be pulled over the head comfortably when putting it on. Should be measured last to avoid inconsistency in measurements because the neck-shape may change due to the stretching.
  • HSP = Highest Shoulder Point
    Highest point at shoulder fold / neck seam, when garment laid flat on table. Not necessarily at shoulder seam.
  • CBN = Centre Back Neck / CFN = Centre Front Neck
    Central point at back / front neck seam, often at collar or neck rib attachment seam.

4. Testing

It is the supplier’s responsibility to be aware of the Wehkamp Quality Manual requirements for Physical Performance and ensure that only materials that will meet those standards are offered to the buying and design teams. Suppliers should identify any material or merchandise where there might be a concern over its ability to meet the requirements to the Quality Assurance Manager.

It is the responsibility of the supplier, to make sure fabrics meet the Wehkamp requirements. If there are any doubts concerning the test report, the supplier should investigate the problem.

Bulk fabric is the actual fabric that will be used in production – it’s therefore in correct color and print. In case of denim and washed fabrics tests should be carried out on washed fabric/garments. The test reports should mention all compulsory tests and their requirements as shown in the Wehkamp Quality Manual per product group.

If a material, when tested, fails to meet the requirements Wehkamp reserves the right to cancel the material and the order without accepting any liability for fabric, other raw materials and production capacity.

During development process the Quality Assurance Manager can request for additional tests if there are certain risks for quality issues due to the nature of the fabric or specific items on a garment.

Suppliers should be aware that Wehkamp will test any product where there is a hesitation regarding the product’s performance. For example if there are unusually high returns on a specific product, test may be carried out to determine the reason. This may result in a claim to the supplier if it’s proved that a fabric or product doesn’t meet the results in the previously approved fabric test report(s). Costs of conducted tests will be part of this claim.

4.1. Jersey & Knits

4.2. Woven

4.3. Denim

4.4. Leather, suede and imitation leather

4.5. Outerwear

4.6. Sportswear

4.7. Swimwear

4.8. Underwear & Foundations

4.9. Trims

4.9.1. Lining

4.9.2. Zip-Fasteners

4.9.3. Cords And Drawstrings

4.9.4. Yarn

4.9.5. Buttons

4.10. REACH

All used chemicals should be in compliance with the REACH regulations. Therefore certain chemicals must not be used and/or avoided.

Details of chemicals and substances used in a product, must be made available through appropriate tests, by the manufacturer. These tests must be provided within 30 days upon request of Wehkamp and communicated clear and correct.

Further information is available at:

https://ec.europa.eu/environment/chemicals/reach/reach_en.htm

5. Manufactured Clothing Specifications

5.1. Fabric

  • Fabric with faults such as holes, knots, broken or missing threads and stains must not be used in production of the garments.
  • Shrinkage must be calculated for each fabric and are to be adjusted accordingly to allow the size specification to be followed in production.
  • In cutting the maximum number of layers must be adjusted to fabric type and the layers must be held in place during cutting.
  • Fabrics with a pile, corduroy or velvet laying and cutting against the grain.

5.2. Seam Construction & Finishing

  • Seam allowance must be made matching to fabric and product type. Standard width is 1 cm.
  • Seam allowance width for safety stitching seams is 7 mm.
  • Stitch length for construction seams must be 5 stitches per cm for woven qualities and 6 stitches per cm for knitted qualities.
  • In case of topstitching, the stitch density must be minimum 3 stitches per cm. Standard density is 6 stitches per cm.
  • Two-needle stitching must have a distance of 0.3 cm unless requested otherwise.
  • Seams strength must comply with stretch and weight of the fabric and seam type.
  • Seams must be made straight and seam ends must be secured.
  • Use correct yarn tension and avoid pulling of the fabric to prevent the fabric from puckering before and after washing of the garment.
  • Select the correct sewing machine settings and needles.
  • Take care of timely maintenance and replacement of needles to prevent damaged fabric.
  • Ensure panels measurements are matching to allow the seams to be stitched without putting excess tension on the fabric.
  • Jersey fabrics may not be pulled in stitching to avoid wavy seams and puckering.
  • Darts and dart seams must run smoothly and the shape must be curved to ensure correct fit.
  • Piping must be attached straight. Puckering and torsion are not allowed.
  • All seams and edges must be finished unless requested otherwise. The finishing stitch density must be adequate to prevent fraying.
  • All seams and edges must be cleared of loose yarns and threads.

5.3. Hems & Cuffs

  • Hems stitching must be firm and free from stitching marks.
  • Hems must be straight. In case of a curved hemline the shape must be even and smooth.
  • Topstitching height in hems is placed at 1.5 cm from edge, unless otherwise specified.
  • Blind stitches need to be regular and thread tension needs to be constant. No tension or stitches must be visible on the surface of the fabric.
  • Hems must not pull or twist after stitching and finishing.
  • Glued hems are not allowed.
  • In coats and jackets the hem must be fixed at CB seam, side seams and other types of vertical seams.
  • Add elastane or nylon in rib hems and sleeve openings.
  • Sleeve hems must be fixed at the sleeve seam(s).
  • In jersey sleeves, avoid lockstitch ends of underarm seam to be visible in sleeve opening.
  • Cuffs must be straight and symmetrical.

5.4. Sleeves

  • Sleeves must be smoothly sewn into the item.
  • In case of one-piece sleeves, the sleeve seam must line out with side seam.
  • Left and right sleeve slits must be of equal length.
  • Shoulder pads must be secured to the shoulder seam at two points.
  • The colour of the shoulder pads must not be visible through the garment.

5.5. Pleats/Folds/Slits

  • Pleats/folds/slits must be made straight and be pressed in finishing, unless otherwise required.
  • All slits and pleats must be stitched accurately without tension or pulling of the fabric.
  • Slit at side seam or CB seam must be secured at the top by a small bartack to avoid the seam from tearing open.

5.6. Fastening

  • The stitch density of buttonholes must fully cover the edges and the button must pass through the buttonhole without stretching or breaking the stitching.
  • Buttons must be firmly attached with backstitching or properly secured chain stitching.
  • Buttons distance at placket is 8 cm for size 38 unless requested otherwise in style sketch.
  • Buttons must be divided evenly and buttonholes position must be matched to buttons.
  • Buttonholes size must match the button size correctly.
  • Zippers of the following brands are accepted: YKK, YKK Vislon, YKK Zaglan, TIT, SAB, SBS, YBS, CMZ, Opti, Albert Zips (Gavotex). Brandless zippers are not allowed.
  • Zippers must have the correct length and size, fitting for the size and type of garment.
  • Zipper must be attached without tension on zipper or fabric to avoid puckering of the fabric.
  • Zip fastenings must run smooth and flawless, with top and end stops.
  • Zipper attachment must allow smooth and free running of the slider between fabrics.
  • If a cut and sew seam is interrupted by a zipper, both sides must come out matching at the same height after the zipper is attached.
  • All fasteners, press-studs, and decorative fastenings, including rings, buckles, zip fastenings, eyelets and Velcro must be strongly attached to the fabric. They must not have sharp edges and must work properly.
  • Overlaps of fastenings must be sufficiently wide to avoid the lower placket to be visible.
  • Inside buttons must be used in case of two-row fastenings, or if styling otherwise requires it.
  • Women’s garments with front button closure must have a button positioned at bust height.
  • Counter-buttons must be used for fabrics of a loose or open quality.
  • Pin-buttons must be used for bulky fabrics.
  • Hooks and eyes must be attached properly.

5.7. Buttons & Accessories

  • Buttons and accessories must be colourfast and comply with the maintenance instructions stated on the wash & care label.
  • Metal buttons, snaps and accessories must be of stainless steel. They must not damage the fabric. They must be attached through at least 2 layers of fabric + interlining.
  • It is required to add a spare button, this must be attached to the label in the side seam.
  • Cords must be colourfast and must not shrink.
  • Buttons and accessories must not have any sharp edges.
  • In skirts and pants with button closure button and buttonhole should be placed at centre front unless specified otherwise.

5.8. Pockets

  • Seams and edges of shell fabric or pocketing fabric must be finished to prevent fraying.
  • The stitching of stitched-on pockets must run at least 2 mm from the edges.
  • The corners of all pocket openings must be fixed securely (for example by a bartack or rivet). This applies to stitched-on pockets and side seam pockets both.
  • In case of multiple pockets, these must be symmetrical in size and positioning.
  • Pockets must be attached flat on the garment without excess width or tension.

5.9. Collars

  • Collars must be made symmetrical in size and colour.
  • In ironing and packing must be ensured that the upper collar is folded correctly and covers the lower collar/collar stand and neck seam.
  • Jersey roll necks and wristbands must stretch enough to allow for the easy passing of head and hand/foot. They must return to their original shape afterwards.
  • Collars, bands and cuffs must be attached clean and without puckering.
  • Rib and jersey bindings must be attached with slight tension to avoid loose fit or puckering.
  • Add elastane or nylon in rib collars.

5.10. Interlining

  • Colour of the interlining must be close to match the colour of the outer material.
  • Facings must be fitted with interlining.
  • Ensure interlining properties are matching to the outer material and comply with the product maintenance instructions.
  • Filling must be carefully glued and finished.

5.11. Lining

  • Lining may not be visible at slits and zips and must be reinforced at the end stop.
  • Lining/pocketing colour must match the colour of the outer material unless otherwise specified.
  • Lining seams must be overlocked. If no safety stitch is used, the seam width must be at least 1 cm. The stitch length must be at least 6 stitches per cm.
  • Free lining must be 2 cm shorter than the outer material at hem.
  • Lining stitched to the outer material at hem must be 6 cm longer than the outer material.
  • Lining in coats must have a box pleat of minimum 6 cm width (= 8 cm extra fabric) placed at top CB in back panel.
  • In coats and blazers the lining must be fixed at the inside of the sleeve head.

5.12. Belts & Waistbands

  • Belt / waistband loops must be fastened securely.
  • When at loop covers a waistband, make bottom part of belt loop attached to the waistband seam.
  • Yarn loops must be made of a thick yarn and attached firmly at 1 point in side seams.

5.13. Stitching Yarn

  • The stitching yarn must match the properties of the fabric and lining and must be colourfast.
  • Monofilaments must not be used.
  • The yarns must be smooth and straight without knots and loose fibres to avoid broken seams.
  • The colour must be matching to the main colour of outer material, unless specified otherwise.
  • In garment dye styles, the stitching yarn must be ready to dye.

5.14. Elastic Cords

  • Elastic used in production must have sufficient elasticity and shape recovering qualities and remain so during wash and wear.
  • Elastic band or cord must have soft handfeel and not be excessively firm or hard.
  • Elastic cords that come into contact with the skin must be soft to prevent skin irritation.
  • The ends of elastic cords must be fastened well to prevent fraying or coming loose.
  • Elastic at neckline or waist must be fixed at shoulder points or side seams to avoid twisting.

5.15. Labels

  • All labels and tags, attachment and location must comply with the Wehkamp BV labelling specifications as described in the quality manual chapter 3.1.
  • The labels and/or tags must not pull at the outer material.
  • Avoid stitching to be visible at outside when possible or if it will be visible stitching must be neat and yarn must be tonal to the outer material.

5.16. Ironing & Finishing

  • All items must be carefully ironed or pressed unless requested otherwise. Avoid heavy pressing at the seams; pressing stains or shiny spots are not permitted.
  • Loose threads and uncut yarns must be removed.
  • Marker lines must be removed.
  • After finishing the garment may not contain any manufacturer’s labels or stickers.

5.17. Special Details

  • All fabrics, yarns, trimmings and accessories must be matching in terms of quality and comply with the maintenance instructions stated on the wash and care label.
  • All decorative stitching, heavy threads etc. must be carefully fixed to the side seams or tied up on the inside of the garment without damaging the fabric.
  • Fabrics with specific motives, such as checks and stripes, must be made with matching seams, the motive continues on the front, side and rear centre seams.
  • Fabrics in and surrounding embroidery must be smooth and not show puckering or damage.
  • Appliqués, emblems, badges etc. must be securely attached and must not shrink.
  • Garments may not give off sour, oil-like or other unpleasant smells.
  • All panels of a garment must be cut on grain unless requested otherwise.
  • In coats and jackets the hanger loop must be securely attached to the centre of the collar.
  • The shoulder seams of knitted and jersey fabrics must be strengthened by stitching silicone tape in the seam.
  • Garment dye colours need to be checked for colour fastness for each colour and quality.
  • Garments with dye stains or white spots after garment dye are not allowed.

5.18. Swimwear

  • For hygienic reasons all swimwear must be supplied with a removable protection sticker at crotch.
  • All seams must be stretchable and soft on the skin while wearing.
  • The crotch area of swimsuits and briefs must always be lined with lining fabric.
  • Soft cups that are used must be soft and flexible and comfortable to wear. They must be resistant to be used in water, sea water and chlorinated water, like all fabrics and accessories.
  • All accessories should not get too hot in the sun while wearing.
  • All wires, wire casings and accessories should not be sharp and must not feel unpleasant while wearing.
  • The cups must be filled with paper wads in the packaging to keep the cups in shape during transport.
  • The brand and care labels must be soft and they should not have hard edges that irritate the skin while wearing.
  • All adjustable straps must be adjusted to the specified sizes mentioned in the size specification during production.
  • Detachable straps and sliders should stay in place when worn. They must not go loose or shift.

6. Labeling Information

Label 1 Brand label

  • Must be made by supplier.
  • Several formats
  • Brand label design information will be provided by Wehkamp.

Label 2 Size label

  • Must be made by supplier.
  • Size on size label must match with sizes used in size specification.
  • Size label design information will be provided by Wehkamp.

Label 3 Hangtag

  • Must be made by supplier.
  • Hangtag is optional and will be asked for specific per style.
  • Several categories
  • Hangtag design information will be provided by Wehkamp.

Label 4 Care label

  • Must be made by supplier.
  • Text and symbols must be permanently legible.
  • Wehkamp article number must be on the care label.
  • Production country must be on label; Made in ..
  • All care labels must be send to the QA department for final approval.
  • Care label design information will be provided by Wehkamp

Label 5 Fire safety label

  • Only in Nightwear
  • Must be made by supplier.
  • Colour artwork Warning text: Fiery Red 18-1664 TCX.
  • Text and international symbol must be permanently legible.
  • Location; attach into the left-hand side seam.
  • Fire safety label design information will be provided by Wehkamp.

6.1. Additional Care Label Information

6.1.1. Material Translation

6.1.2. Care Instruction Translation

6.2. Labeling Position

6.2.1. Tops

6.2.2. Dress

6.2.3. Coat/Jacket

6.2.4. Pullover

 

Label 1 Brand Label

  • End-fold label attached at CB, below edge or seam, with 2 small bartack at the top corners.
  • Mid-fold label attached at CB with top edge incorporated within seam.

Label 2 Size Label

  • Attached at bottom of end-fold brand label or attached at right side of mid-fold brand label.

Label 3 Hangtag

  • Attached with pin to bottom of brand label (centered). Pin will be delivered with hangtag.

Label 4 Composition and washing instructions

  • Attach in left-hand side seam of item (approx. 15 cm. from lower edge in case of top item and approx. 15 cm. from waist in case of bottom item.

6.3. Bottoms

6.3.1. Skirt

6.3.2. Trouser/Short

s

6.3.3. Jeans

 

Label 1 Brand Label

  • End-fold label attached at CB, below edge or seam, with 2 small bartack at the top corners.
  • Mid-fold label attached at CB with top edge incorporated within seam.
  • Jeans: Mid-fold brand label attached on the inside, above wearer’s left pocketing, together with waistband, 13 cm from center front.

Label 2 Size Label

  • Attached at bottom of end-fold brand label or attached at right side of mid-fold brand label.
  • Jeans: Attached on the inside, above care label, together with waistband, centered at care label.

Label 3 Hangtag

  • Attached with pin to bottom of brand label (centered). Pin will be delivered with hangtag.

Label 4 Composition and washing instructions

  • Attached in left-hand side seam of item (approx. 15 cm. from lower edge in case of top item and approx. 15 cm. from waist in case of bottom item.
  • Jeans: Attached on the inside, above wearer’s right pocketing, together with waistband, 13 cm from center front.

6.4. Body Fashion

6.4.1. Foundations

6.4.2. Swimwear

 

Label 4 Composition and washing instructions

  • For swimsuit: attach the label in the left side seam.
  • For bikini/briefs: attach the label in the centre back seam.
  • For bikini/tops: attach the label on the right, below the armhole.

Care label:

  • Spoel na ieder gebruik in ruim koud water. Was regelmatig met milde zeep, daarna goed spoelen. Geen bleekmiddel of wasverzachter gebruiken.